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Within
the northern boundary of Fort William is the entrance to Glen Nevis,
one of the finest glens in the Highlands. It winds for about 7 miles
into the heart of rugged mountains; bounded by the massive slopes
of Ben Nevis on the northern side and the steep Mamore range on
the south.
Shortly
after leaving the main road, the old bridge of Nevis appears on
the left; a typical example of a bridge constructed by General Wade
but now only used by pedestrians. In 1724, General Wade was authorised
by the government to help enforce order in the Highlands and to
bring the chieftains with Jacobite sympathies into submission. To
accomplish this, one if his requirements was to build roads which
would make the country more accessible to the military. Fine examples
of his work are still visible today – the old road from Fort William
over the hills of Glencoe and the road from Fort William to Fort
George.
At
the foot of the first gentle hill, on the right, the remains of
the old Toll House are barely visible as a recess in the banking.
The
Fort William curling pond can be seen on the left a little further
on, then round the corner, a deep pool called the Roaring Mill,
much favoured by the local fishermen. The noise is caused by the
water tumbling through the narrow cleft in the rocks.
Four
hundred yards further on the left, is Clach Shomhairle (Samuel's
Stone). This is said to have been placed there to commemorate a
decisive victory gained on the spot by a chieftain of the Sliochd
Shomhairle Ruaidh. It was from this that the Camerons of Glen Nevis
derived the name of MacSorlie, meaning son of Samuel.
A
traditional fable names it Clach Chomhairle (the stone of advice
and counsel). It is said that at certain seasons of the year, this
great stone revolves three times and that persons who find it in
motion will receive answers to any questions put before the rotary
action ceases.
Half
a mile further, set back from the road on the right, is Tom-Eas-An't
Slinneain (Knoll of the Waterfall of the shoulder). Shaded by tall
beaches and elms, this is an old burial ground of the Camerons of
Glen Nevis.
Passing
the graveyard, leading up through the forest, is the Peat Track
that climbs over the slopes of Ben Riach to Blarmafoldach. This
route was originally used to carry peat from Blarmafoldach to Glen
Nevis and is an enjoyable walk.
Near
the end of an avenue of Beech and Sycamore trees is Glen Nevis House.
In March 1746, the second year of the Jacobite Rebellion, the chieftains
Cameron of Lochiel and Macdonell of Keppoch used this house as their
headquarters when they were ordered by Bonnie Prince Charlie to
take command of the detachment of soldiers that had been sent from
Inverness to lay siege to Fort William, the actual town was then
named Maryborough and had been destroyed by fire on the orders of
General Campbell. This cleared the area around the fort and assisted
the soldiers in the defence of the fort from the Jacobites.
After
the battle of Culloden in 1746, when the King's soldiers defeated
the supporters of Bonnie Prince Charlie, the Duke of Cumberland
and his men, determined to subdue the last of the rebels, marched
south from Inverness through Fort William, burning and looting as
they went. All who resisted were put to the sword. Among the houses
plundered during this reign of terror was the old house of Glen
Nevis, but by the timely flight of the wife of Cameron of Glen Nevis
with all the portable property she could manage, the looters did
not gain much. All the heavier valuables were buried deep outside
the garden wall. Mrs Cameron with her infant son, remained hidden
in Uamh Shomhairle (Samuel's Cave) for some days, but were at last
discovered by a body of soldiers who had been amusing themselves
by burning and destroying houses in the Glen. One of them noticed
that she had something hidden under her plaid which was held by
a silver brooch and drawing his weapon, cut open the garment, disclosing
the baby. Finding no valuables, the soldiers departed with the brooch
and plaid and left Mrs Cameron to make her way back to her ruined
home. The child had been wounded in the neck by the sword thrust
and bore the scar until he died.
The
ancestral stronghold of the Camerons or MacSorlies as they were
then called, was situated on a knoll called Dun Dige, a few hundred
yards from Glen Nevis House. This was a wooden fortification and
although the structure and enclosing walls are no longer visible,
the surrounding moat and a tall conifer clearly mark the spot.
Inside
the entrance to the Holiday Cottage/Static Caravan Park is Cnocan-na-mi-chomhairle
(The Hill of Evil Counsel). The beech-covered knoll is named after
the following event, thought to occurred sometime after 1386. The
clans as usual were engaged in many feuds and for peace-making purposes
the MacSorlie Chief invited his bitter foes, the Clan Chattan, to
a conference at his home on Dun Dige. This action was looked on
with disfavour by the Glen Nevis Camerons but the gathering duly
took place. MacSorlie lavishly dispensed his hospitality and some
accord was established. He then called his piper to speed the departing
guests, however, the indignant piper gave vent to his feelings by
playing the war pibroch of the Clan Cameron. Thigibh an so, chlannabh
na'n con,'sgheibh sibh feoil. (Come here children of the dogs and
you will get flesh). Enraged at such an insult, the members of Clan
Chattan left, vowing vengeance. On reaching this hillock, they held
counsel together and decided to seek revenge. Towards midnight they
returned stealthily to the stronghold of the MacSorlies who, though
expecting revenge, thought that the men would return home for their
clansmen. Falling upon the sleeping inmates, the men of Clan Chattan
spared neither man, woman or child and finally set fire to the stronghold.
Iain MacDhom'ic Raoil, a member of the MacSorlies, snatched the
sleeping infant heir along with some heirlooms including a silver
spoon, then fled to a cave further up the Glen. Here they hid for
some weeks, until his wife, who followed Iain's faithful dog to
the cave, discovered the hiding place. Fearing for the safety of
the heir of the Glen Nevis Camerons, Iain fled north with the child
where he was unknown and safe from the Clan Chattan. There he brought
up young MacSorlie until it became necessary for the young chieftan
to receive the education befitting his rank. Returning to Lochaber
with him, Iain presented himself at the house of Inverlair where
the sister of the unfortunate MacSorlie resided. Recognising the
silver spoon and the resemblance of the boy to her dead brother,
she accepted him as her nephew. At the age of seventeen he was recognised
as the Chief of the MacSorlies of Glen Nevis.
Beyond
the Hill of Evil Counsel, just inside the edge of the forest, is
a boulder called Clach-an-Turramain or rocking stone. Some years
ago this huge stone could be made to rock quite easily, but tree
roots have made it practically a fixture. Similar rocking stones
are found throughout the Highlands, but a reasonable explanation
for their purpose has not yet been made. The stones appear to be
very finely poised on a pivot and are supposed to be of druidical
origin.
Opposite
the Youth Hostel the bridge over the River Nevis leads on to the
path to the summit of Ben Nevis.
Looking
up to the skyline to the right of the Glen above the forest, are
two summits. The one on the left rising steeply to 1,000 feet is
called, Dun Deardhuil. On the hilltop are the remains of a vitrified
fort. Vitrification means the fusing together of the stones by the
action of heat but it is unknown if this was incidental or intended
for structural purposes. The forts seem to have been strongly built
with high walls and in some places the vitrification has been so
complete that surfaces of stones littering the site resemble pieces
of glass. Dun Dearduil forms one of a chain of similar enclosures
stretching from Inverness to the West Coast. It is thought that
they may have been used by primitive dwellers as a means of signalling
and being constructed on hilltops, each station, when lit by fire,
was always visible from the next in the chain.
The
name of the fort recalls Deirdre, the tragic beauty of Celtic tradition.
Deardhuil being the Gaelic spelling of Deirdre. Some authorities
claim the name does not refer to Deirdre but is spelt Dun Dearg
Suil (Hill of the Red Eye) meaning it was once a beacon hill.
Immediately
below Deardhuil the road climbs up the Soldiers Brae, Halfway down
the decent, on the left of the road, is a seat made out of stone
slabs. It is said to have been made by the soldiers on guard at
that point in the early 18 th century.
About
half a mile further, the river widens and becomes shallow. On the
opposite bank, sheltered by large beech trees, lies the burying
ground of Ach-na'n-Con (Field of the Dogs). In this area there is
evidence of various dwellings and it appears to have been thickly
populated at one time. This was the original graveyard of the Camerons
of Glen Nevis but it fell into disuse when the mountain stream,
which descends from Ben Nevis, disturbed the graves. Slabs of slate
mark many of the last resting places but the only discernible date
is 17--. The translation of the Gaelic name “Field of the Dogs”
is an unlikely name for a Cameron burying ground, but originally
it was thought to have been named “Field of the Dead”.
Towering
above is the great massif of Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in
Great Britain. The ascent path climbs first across the face of Meall-an't-Suidhe
(the Hill of Rest) to the left of the mighty Ben, then crosses onto
the shoulder of the Ben. The name Ben Nevis has been given several
derivations but the one most generally accepted if the Gaelic Beinn
neanh beathais meaning the mountain with its summit nearest heaven.
There
have been many accidents to climbers and walker alike, so great
care should be taken on the mountain. Sensible clothing and equipment
are necessities. The normal walk takes approximately four hours
up and two and a half hours down depending on fitness. On a clear
day the view is glorious: from the Island of Jura to the mountains
of the Cairngorms. In 1883 an observatory was opened on the top
of Ben Nevis. Erected of granite blocks, the original building was
about 13 foot square; at their base the walls were 10-12 feet thick.
This was closed through lack of funds in 1903 but some of the ruins
are still visible.
Continuing
along the Glen, we cross a small wooden bridge and come to the house
of Achriabhach where Iain MacDhon'ic Raoli lived. Round a sharp
bend, the roar of the Lower Falls can be heard. A little above the
falls is where one of the MacSorlie chiefs was murdered in the early
part of the 17 th century. He had gone to see his cattle, and was
in the act of drinking from a bowl when an arrow shot by a man concealed
behind a rock, pinned the vessel to the man's head. The murderer
was said to be Iain MacAindrea, a cunning and malevolent dwarf who
was blamed for many deaths. A few hundred yards further the ruins
of crofts and byres are clearly visible. There are many of these
through the length of Glen Nevis, giving some indication of the
population prior to the infamous Highland Clearances.
The
mountains close in and the scenery becomes wilder and rougher as
the road winds along the hillside, deeper into the glen. A car park
marks the end of the road. The stream that comes rushing down the
precipitous hillside is called the Water-slide and climbing straight
up by this is the shortest but steepest route to the summit of Ben
Nevis. (Experienced climbers only)
Opposite
the car park, on the other side of the river is a large outcrop
of rock. Hidden in this is Uamh Shomhairle (Samuel's Cave). This
is the cave to which Iain fled with the infant heir of the MacSorlies
and is named after him. It is also where Mrs Cameron of Glen Nevis
House took refuge when her house was raided after Culloden and several
legends are associated with the cave.
The
footpath from the car park winds rounds the mountains and passes
through a narrow gorge – the water thundering over huge boulders
and tumbles its way between the rocks. The gorge opens out into
a green valley, leading to a sheer precipice of 500 feet from which
a waterfall tumbles to the valley below. This is a wonderful spot
and well worth the trouble to visit. The waterfall – An Steall –
is usually knows as the Upper Falls of Nevis.
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